If you must be alive, why not? Surfing has the opposite existential purport. It’s a sublimely beautiful, profoundly meaningful, indeed…
The elated state of ‘stoke’
The elated state of ‘stoke’, as surfers call it, is really a sort of celebration of what’s come to pass.…
What surfing says about the importance of serendipity in life
Consider a wave rising from the ocean’s depth, which is about to crest and peel along a reef or beach. What…
